7/29/2024 0 Comments Backpacking Europe '94: Aunt Sybil's "Bootcamp" & The Making of True World TravellersThis is part of a blog series commemorating the 30th anniversary of a life-changing backpacking tour of Europe I experienced with my friend Joey. In the last post, I wrote about my aesthetically transforming encounters with real art while travelling through Europe. In this post, I want to reflect on how my Aunt Sybil helped Joey and me become bonafide world travellers. With our gear rammed into rucksacks, my friend Joey and I boarded a KLM flight to begin our journey to Europe. We flew from the Great White North on Tuesday, September 20, 1994, and crossed the pond to England’s “green and pleasant land.” Our flight plan was from Toronto, Canada to Manchester, England by way of Amsterdam, The Netherlands. Lost LuggageOur UK destination was the industrial city of Manchester. Upon disembarking and setting foot on English soil for the first time, our enthusiasm was soon diminished by the fact that our luggage failed to appear on the carousel. Over the PA system, a voice declared: “KLM apologizes for the delay. They are experiencing technical difficulties. Your luggage will be available shortly.” Shortly came––and went. It turned out that the cargo doors wouldn’t open, and our backpacks were stuck in the belly of the plane (along with everyone else’s luggage). The airline assured us that our belongings would be shipped to our destination as soon as possible… Pints, pubs, and fish ‘n chipsWhile we were sorting out our luggage situation, Paul Hartley, my cousin (twice removed), was waiting patiently to pick us up at the airport. After a couple of hours delay, we finally exited the airport and met Paul. He cordially greeted us and drove us the hour-and-a-half trek back to the quaint market town of Wetherby in West Yorkshire. It was with Paul that I tasted my first authentic English fish ‘n chips… (though I may have desecrated it with ketchup). I also had my first British pub pint in The Black Bull––the first of many more pubs and pints to come. The airline’s “as soon as possible” timeline was slightly longer than anticipated. I didn’t get fresh undies or deodorant until Thursday, September 22, when a delivery van pulled up to 11 Walton Road in Wetherby and unloaded our packs. September 22 also happened to be my 19th birthday, so this turned out to be a very timely birthday gift! An even greater gift, however, was staying with my Aunt Sybil (Paul's mum, and my grandmother's cousin, making her my first cousin twice removed––or someting like that!). Aunt Sybil was a spunky, good-humoured, and generous matriarch who had no qualms about speaking her mind or whipping into shape two Canadian “yobs” under her tutelage! Aunt Sybil’s BootcampA “yob” is a British slang word for a loutish and uncultured young person. Although she never called me or Joey that, I am sure she thought it! Early on in our stay in Aunt Sybil’s cute stone cottage, we had a penchant for sleeping in and watching British TV. In other words, we had literally travelled over 5000 kilometers just to vegetate in front of the boob-tube. One particular day, Joey was curled up on the lounge chair, and I was sprawled on the floor watching a hilarious BBC television show called Red Dwarf. Aunt Sybil marched into the sitting room and gave me a firm kick. “Come on,” she said. “What are you two doing sitting in front of the telly? You didn’t come all this way to watch television programmes!” With that, she dragged us out for a walk in the beautiful town filled with stone buildings, ornate street lamps, old-fashioned shops, green shrubs and trees, cozy parks, and a charming arched stone bridge over the River Wharfe. The day was idyllic: the sun shone, the markets bustled with people, and children played European football in the park. Aunt Sybil spoke about the town's history and various buildings, and other interesting and odd features and facts about Wetherby. Through this experience, she taught me to truly see the unique sights and sounds right before me. She showed me that I needed to make the most of my time while I was in Europe. These were valuable travel lessons, and they were valuable life lessons as well. She also broke me of my TV habit. I had been a television watcher for most of my life. With that swift kick from an elderly woman, I was able to kick the habit, too. Our “Get Going” Guide
I am incredibly thankful for her generosity with the time and energy she invested into Joey and me. We only spent about a week with Aunt Sybil, but her contagious spirit of adventure, her firm guidance, and her inspirational promptings to explore certainly laid the foundation for our travels in the subsequent weeks and months ahead. She prompted and prodded Joey and me to “get off our duffs” and explore the world around us. She helped us sort out how to travel... she showed us what to look for, what we shouldn’t miss, what we can overlook, and how to get there. In short, she taught us how to be true world travellers. In Joseph Cambell’s theory of the hero’s journey, he includes an archetypal character who prepares and prompts the hero for the adventure ahead. Neither Joey nor I were “heroes,” but we were setting out on an adventurous journey. In famous myths and movies based on the hero’s journey, wise mentors like Merlin, Gandalf, Dumbledore, and Obi-Wan Kenobi fill the “prompting and prodding” role. In many ways, Aunt Sybil was my Gandalf-like guide, the grande dame of exciting exploits. Besides being a generous host (who cooked up splendid British fare), she nudged Joey and me across “the threshold,” and helped us set out on the host of adventures that lay ahead. At the time, it never occurred to me why an elderly woman living alone would be willing to take in two rough-and-tumble teens from Canada. Yet, she did. Perhaps she was having a little adventure of her own! Whatever the case, I am very grateful that she took us in and showed us the way to adventure!
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After graduating high school, spending the summer at Camp Oneida, and just about to turn 19, I flew to Great Britain to begin a three-month trip. With my school chum, Joey, we explored twelve European countries on foot, by bus, train, and boat. This coming Fall will mark the 30th anniversary of that backpacking tour. Over the next month or so, I hope to write a blog series highlighting my reflections on my time visiting family, meeting new friends, and seeing the sights. For this first post, I want to reflect on the lasting “aesthetic impact” of a few key works of art I encountered on my trip to the Old Counrty. Europe is chock-full of astonishing art and architecture. I saw a lot of art and architecture, from Da Vinci’s “Mona Lisa” to the Colosseum in Rome. I would like to highlight here three specific encounters that left an indelible mark in my heart and mind. The first encounterThe first encounter that rocked my world happened in the relatively remote and somewhat industrial town of Glasgow, Scotland. At Kelvingrove Art Gallery, I saw a Rembrandt painting in person for the first time. The painting was “A Man in Armour” (1655). I recall entering the room and immediately, my eyes were drawn to the painting. The painting stood out from all the surrounding paintings. I was entranced by this portrait of a young man burdened with heavy armour and weapons and preoccupied with deep thoughts, possibly of the battles he must soon face. Rembrandt's use of light and shadow (which I did not understand then) completely captivated me. I stared at it. This may have been my first real aesthetic experience with a work of art. I have never forgotten that moment.
The second encounterLater on in the trip, we saw a concert in Amsterdam, The Netherlands. The historic concert hall––The Concertgebouw––is renowned for its beauty and acoustics. On a Sunday evening in late October, we sat with hundreds of other guests in plush chairs and gazed up at the 17-meter-high ornate ceiling. That evening I heard my first concerto in person. I saw the conductor directing the musicians, I heard the harmonizing of so many complementary instruments, and I felt the music brush against my skin and pierce my soul. I had never "felt" music before. The pieces we heard weren’t particularly remarkable–Johannes Brahms’ “Piano Concerto No. 2, op. 83” and Arnold Schönberg’s “Violin Concerto, op. 36.” What resonated with me was seeing, feeling, and hearing music performed live in a superbly designed acoustic space. I had been to concerts with synthesized instruments, electirc guitars, and amplified music... but this was incarnated beauty, beauty I could touch. This was truly electric. A third encounterLastly, we visited the Vatican––with its treasure trove of art and artifacts. For reasons I can’t recall, we missed seeing Pope John Paul II, who regularly appeared on the balcony above San Pietro Piazza. We managed to see the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, craning our necks to look up and squinting our eyes to see the smaller-than-expected frescoes. What moved me the most, however, was La Pietà by Michelangelo (1498-1499), the marble sculpture of the lifeless body of Jesus lying across the lap of his earthly mother. Upon entering the nave of St. Peter’s Basilica––the world’s largest church––we took in the astonishing beauty of that sacred space. Then, I was drawn to the right, where I saw the Chapel of the Pieta and the sculpture within. What Michelangelo achieved with this masterpiece is unparalleled. La Pietà simultaneously conveys natural and realistic beauty, the idealism of classical beauty, and profound theological beauty. I saw a mother and son, I saw a god-like hero broken and in seeming defeat, and I saw the Virgin Mary with the Son of God. I saw the paradox of the crucifixion in that work––profound love and deep sadness, life and death, victory and defeat––all commingling in the tender maternal moment captured with hammer and chisel. I saw artistry that I had never seen before––living marble––breathing, feeling, weeping stone. This was Mary, who pondered in her heart the mysteries of her son, who Simeon told that her child was “appointed for the fall and rising of many in Israel, and for a sign that is opposed (and a sword will pierce through your own soul also), so that thoughts from many hearts may be revealed” (Luke 2:19, 34-35). This was Jesus, God in the flesh.
All of this didn’t hit me at once as a 19-year-old kid wandering around the cobblestone streets of Europe. Thirty years of reflection and contemplation have given me much time to really comprehend what happened to me during these encounters with real art in the real world. Since then, I have learned a lot more about art. I have seen more art, and I have been back a few times to see them again. I spent ten years writing about faith and art, and I wrote a book on the subject. But with these three encounters, a seed was planted, and a fire was kindled. It was an encounter with truth, beauty, and goodness. Like Shakespeare’s Romeo, as he gazed upon the beautiful Juliet for the first time, I, too, declared, “Did my heart love till now? forswear it, sight! For I ne’er saw true beauty till this night.” |
Jeremy W. JohnstonChristian, husband, father, teacher, writer. Archives
August 2024
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